Welding &
Fabrication
MIG, TIG, and gas welding for structural repairs, rust replacement, and custom fabrication. If your car's got rot, I'll cut it out and weld in fresh metal properly — from my workshop near Milton Keynes.
Cutting Out Rot & Welding In Fresh Metal
Rust is the enemy. It doesn't matter how good your paintwork looks or how sweet your engine runs — if the metal underneath is rotten, none of it matters. That's where I come in. At my workshop in Wicken, near Milton Keynes, I carry out structural welding and fabrication on everything from classic Fords to modern daily drivers. Sills, floors, wheel arches, chassis rails, inner wings, boot floors, scuttle panels — if it's corroded, I'll cut the rot out and replace it with fresh steel.
I don't just weld a patch over the top and hope for the best. Every repair starts by cutting back past the rust until I'm into solid, clean metal. Then I fabricate the replacement section — whether that's from a pattern part or shaped by hand. The new panel gets welded in with weld-through primer on every mating surface, seam sealed properly, and treated to stop the rust coming back. It's the only way to do it if you want the repair to actually last.
"Rust doesn't sleep, and it doesn't care how much you paid for the car. The only fix is cutting it all out, getting back to solid metal, and building it up properly from there."
If you want to see what proper structural welding looks like, have a look at the Capri Brooklands restoration I did — the sills, floors, boot floor, and scuttle panel were all rusted through and needed replacing with hand-fabricated panels. Or there's my own 1998 Escort GTI — I spent four months welding new floors and rear arches into that thing over Christmas, in the snow. Not glamorous, but it passed its MOT and I've been daily driving it ever since. That's what good metalwork gives you: a car you can actually trust.
I take on welding jobs of all sizes. It could be a couple of patches to get through an MOT, or a full structural restoration where the shell's more holes than metal. I also do custom fabrication — brackets, mounts, exhaust repairs, whatever you need making from steel or aluminium. People come to me from across Buckinghamshire — from Buckingham, Towcester, and Northampton — because I do the job properly and I'm upfront about what needs doing. If it needs welding, I'll tell you. If it doesn't, I'll tell you that too.
From My Workshop
What to Expect
Assessment
I'll get your car up on the ramp, have a proper look underneath, and prod around with a screwdriver. You'll see exactly where the rust is and get an honest idea of cost before any work starts.
Strip & Prep
Underseal, sound deadening, old paint — it all comes off so I can see the full picture. Rust hides, and the only way to find all of it is to strip everything back to bare metal.
Fabrication & Welding
Rotten sections get cut out completely. Replacement panels are sourced or fabricated by hand. Every mating surface gets weld-through primer before anything's tacked in, then it's welded and ground back flush.
Treatment & Protection
Every seam gets sealed to keep water out. Enclosed sections and box sections get treated with cavity wax to protect from the inside out. The whole repair is primed and protected before anything goes back on.
Finishing
Depending on the job, I'll prep the repaired areas for bodywork and paint, underseal underneath, or hand it back for MOT. If you need a full restoration, I can take it from bare shell to finished car.
Got Rust That
Needs Sorting?
Send me a few photos on WhatsApp — underside, sills, arches, wherever the rust is — and I'll give you an honest idea of what's involved. No hard sell, just straight advice from someone who's been cutting out rot for over 20 years.