Custom
Resprays
From factory colour matches to full custom colour changes, I spray everything in my dedicated booth at my workshop near Milton Keynes. Proper prep, quality paint, and a finish you can be proud of.
It's 90% Prep & 10% Paint
A good respray isn't about the paint — it's about everything that happens before the paint goes on. Ask anyone who's had a cheap respray and they'll tell you: it looked great for a month, then the orange peel showed up, the edges started lifting, and the colour didn't quite match. That's what happens when you skip the prep. I don't skip anything. Every car that goes into my booth at Wicken gets stripped, sanded, primed, and blocked until the surface is absolutely right. Only then does it get paint.
I work with 2K paints and clear coats — the same systems used by manufacturers. Whether you're after a factory colour match for an insurance repair, a period-correct classic colour for a restoration, or something completely custom, I can mix it. The 1986 Ford Capri Brooklands I restored got a VW blue metallic with added flake — six stages of wet sanding and two stages of machine polish gave it a wet-look depth that stops people in their tracks. That's the standard I work to on every job, whether it's a full colour change or a single panel blend.
"Anyone can spray paint on a car. The difference between a £500 respray and a proper one is what happens in the three days before the trigger gets pulled."
The process matters. Old paint, underseal, stone chips, and any existing damage all need dealing with first. If there's rust, it gets cut out and welded properly — not just skimmed over with filler. If there's bodywork damage, it gets straightened and repaired before any primer goes near it. Then it's etch primer, high-build primer, block sanding, guide coat, more blocking, and finally the top coat. It takes time, but that's why the finish lasts and looks right years down the line.
I get customers from across Milton Keynes, Buckingham, Towcester, and Northampton who've been quoted cheap resprays elsewhere and want to know why my price is different. The answer is always the same: I'm not just spraying paint — I'm doing the job properly. If you want to understand more about what goes into a quality paint job, have a look at my guides section where I go into more detail.
From My Spray Booth
What to Expect
Assessment & Colour Choice
I'll look over the car, discuss what you're after, and check the condition of the existing paintwork. If you're matching the original colour, I'll use your paint code. If you want something different, I'll help you choose and mix a sample to check before committing.
Strip & Prep
Trim, handles, rubbers, glass — anything that's in the way comes off. The existing paint gets flatted back or stripped depending on its condition. Any rust or damage gets dealt with at this stage, not hidden under paint.
Prime & Block
High-build primer goes on, then it's blocked back by hand. Guide coat shows up any low spots or imperfections. This stage gets repeated until the surface is dead straight — it's the most time-consuming part, and the most important.
Paint
Into the booth for base coat and clear coat. Temperature, humidity, and dust are all controlled to get a clean, even finish. Multiple coats of lacquer give depth and protection.
Polish & Reassemble
Once the paint has cured, it gets wet-sanded and machine-polished to remove any texture and bring out the gloss. Then all the trim, glass, and hardware goes back on. The result is a factory-smooth, deep-gloss finish.
Want a Fresh
Coat of Paint?
Send me a few photos on WhatsApp and I'll give you an honest quote. Whether it's a full colour change or touching up a classic, I'll tell you exactly what's involved and what it'll cost.